Help / FAQ's
Thank you for visiting our website. Below we have listed the most frequently asked questions from our customers.
Send us a question, and we will post it below!
What is the correct way to acclimate fish, corals and invertebrates?
*Click here for the process*
Do I have to use a Wet/Dry filter on my saltwater aquarium?
This is by far one of the most frequently asked questions. Many hobbyists use a Wet/Dry filter on their aquariums, however others
use canister and hang-on types. Years ago it was the most popular consensus that in order to have a successful reef aquarium
you must have a Wet/Dry filter. This is simply not the case any longer. If an aquarium is larger than a 150, we would then
recommend a Wet/Dry filter. Simply, in this instance it would be more cost effective to utilize a Wet/Dry. For aquariums 125 gallons
and below, you can have a successful saltwater aquarium by using canisters, and/or hang-on bio-wheel type of filters. Through our
practice and experience, we have seen that the two filtration methods are equally successful!
Can I use tap water to mix my salt or to top off my tank?
The answer is simply- NO
Tap water, regardless of City or Well sources, contains impurities: copper and iron, usually from metal pipes and wells, bacteria,
phosphate and nitrate (algae- promoting nutrients), chlorine, chloramines, ammonia, and silicates. These compounds may not
affect our health or the taste of drinking water in small amounts, however they can create less than favorable conditions for
invertebrates and fish living in our marine aquariums. Many of these impurities promote nuisance algae such as hair algae and
Cyanobacteria (slime algae) that can overgrow a reef tank and ruin its appearance.
*It has been brought to our attention (from several customers who use other companies to maintain their aquariums, that Tap
water (regardless of City or Well sources) is being used for start-up and top off water sources. This is one of the most important
factors to consider when hiring a company to setup or maintain your aquarium. Our suggestion is to seek other means if they are
not willing to use RO/DI purified water.
Reverse osmosis and deionizers (RO/DI) are the best methods for purifying tap-water. Miniature drinking water filters attached to
faucets do not provide the degree of toxin removal and purification required to improve the conditions of tap water for aquarium
use.
Aiptasia (Nuisance Anemones)
Many of us, if not all, have had to battle with Aiptasia in our saltwater aquariums. Many hobbyists use different methods to try and
eradicate them from their tanks- (from Joe's Juice, chemical injections, boiling hot water, lemon juice in a hypodermic needle, to
placing the rock with Aiptasia into RO/DI for a number of hours). All these methods have been used but in many instances, to no
avail. Now, Red Sea has made it simple and easy to eradicate the nuisance anemones! Aiptasia - X
New Tank Syndrome
What is New Tank Syndrome? When your newly setup saltwater aquarium is cycling (roughly 3 - 8 weeks) you should never add
delicate species to the tank (Anemones, Soft/Hard Corals, delicate invertebrates, or expensive fish). This is a phenomenon that
even the experts question, however be sure to follow this rule for a successful tank. Click here for information on the Cycling
Process!
My sand is dirty and it really looks bad. I want to know if I should vacuum my sand.
This is yet another topic worth discussing. When you vacuum your sand, you are literally removing the beneficial sand inhabitants-
(Microfauna/ Fauna) Bacteria- (Autotrophic/Heterotrophic/Chemolithotrophic) which all contribute to the process of breaking down
food and detritus within your tank. By vacuuming the sand bed you will offset the water parameters within the aquarium, possibly
causing an ammonia and Nitrate spike.
Vacuuming your sand bed is unnecessary and can actually do more harm than good!
If, and only if there is a patch of sand that is covered with algae or the like, we recommend that you quickly siphon (the surface) of
that spot. Always replenish your aquarium with the necessary bacteria (Bacter Vital) after water changes and/or dose with this
bacteria once a week.
*If you have enough water movement within your saltwater aquarium, debris will not settle on the sand and will be processed
naturally through proper filtration.*
I think I am overfeeding. What is the right way to feed my fish and corals?
When we eat a meal, we expect to take the time to enjoy it and nourish our body. The same principle should be used when feeding
your tank inhabitants. We suggest that you turn your filter(s) and skimmer off when feeding. This process will ensure that all of
your fish and corals are eating. This will also directly effect your water parameters. By doing this, the food will not be taken by the
filter and skimmer. You will not have to clean your filter pads as often and the chances of a spike in Nitrate/Nitrite/Ammonia will be
slim.
I want to set up a reef aquarium. Can you tell me what I need?
*Live Rock - minimum 1 to 2 (lbs) per gallon.
*Live Sand - 1.45 (lbs) per gallon. Example- 55 Gallon Aquarium= 80 (lbs)
*Lighting - 3 to 5 watts per gallon. Example- 55-gallon aquarium is 165 – 275 watts.
*Filtration / Skimmers - The ideal setup will provide a turnover rate of 15 to 25 times the volume of water
per hour. Obtaining a filter and skimmer should be on the list of highest importance when purchasing
an aquarium.
*When setting up an aquarium, you should add your sand first, then place your live rock where desired,
then add your saltwater.*
Why do I need to have Live Rock in my Tank?
Live rock becomes the main biological nitrification base or biological filter of a saltwater aquarium, while at the same time
enhances the look of the aquarium and provides shelter for the inhabitants. It is not necessary to add live rock to a fish only tank,
however the addition of live rock to any setup has greater benefits.
About.com
What is a UV sterilizer and should I have one on my reef aquarium?
A UV Sterilizer is a purification method which uses ultraviolet light to kill bacteria, algae spores, and micro organisms. It is widely
debated by many hobbyist to utilize a UV Sterilizer on a reef system. The UV Sterilizer cannot discriminate between the "good" and
the "bad" bacteria and micro organisms, so therefore it kills both. A UV Sterilizer should not be used constantly on a reef system. If
one chooses to utilize a UV Sterilizer it should be used periodically. When using a UV Sterilizer, you should be sure to replenish the
bacteria in your reef aquarium. It has also be researched and shown that when a UV Sterilizer is used, photo oxidation (physical
destruction of corals) can take place. If you decide to use a UV Sterilizer, Open Oceans recommends using one on a Fish Only
aquarium (an aquarium without corals).
Why is the blue light important to have for my reef aquarium?
The blue light is actinic light. It is very important to provide actinic light for your corals. The Zooxanthellae (algae within the corals)
must receive this lighting for the overall health and growth of the photosynthetic corals. Be sure to change your light bulbs (both
white and actinic) at least once a year.
What is the proper temperature for a saltwater aquarium?
This is a question that is debated by many saltwater hobbyists. Our experience shows that one of the more important factors is
temperature fluctuation. Stress on fish, invertebrates, and corals is directly related to the temperature fluctuations throughout the
day. We recommend that you try to maintain a less fluctuating temperature within your aquarium. Studies have shown that
temperatures above 85 degrees Fahrenheit has an undesirable effect on corals, as does a fluctuation to lower temperatures. The
Zooxanthellae (algae living within the coral, which provides food for the coral through photosynthesis) begins to die at higher
temperatures, therefore so does the coral. We recommend a temperature of 78 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit. If your water tends to
fluctuate too high throughout the day, you should consider using an external fan or a chiller to control the temperature.
How do I feed my corals? Click Here!
Do you recommend using carbon in a marine aquarium?
Many reef hobbyists use carbon in their aquarium, however, we recommend using a product called Chemi-pure Elite. Let's first
examine carbon. Carbon is used to remove unpleasant smells, and cloudiness from aquarium water. However, most carbons
release or leach the removed compounds back into the aquarium water. Chemi-pure Elite has been on the market for many years
and is ideal for both freshwater and saltwater aquariums. Chemi-pure Elite does not release or leach waste back into the water.
Chemi-pure Elite is a unique product that does not strip saltwater of its necessary trace elements (as other carbons do). Chemi-
pure Elite absorbs heavy metals, copper, phenol, ammonia and other nitrogenous waste, phosphates and silicates. In addition
Chemi-pure Elite maintains the proper pH which is imperative when mimicking a marine environment. By utilizing this product,
your tank will be clearer and healthier!
My fish is rubbing and scratching itself on rocks in the tank. It also has small white dots all over its
body. What are the white dots? How do I get rid of them?
The signs of rubbing, scratching and white dots is most definitely Saltwater Ich- (Cryptocaryon). Ich is a disease many hobbyists
experience. There are many opinions surrounding the treatment of this fish disease. Some people use chemicals to stop or
prevent the spread of Ich. Many of these chemicals are not reef safe (not safe to use in an aquarium with corals, invertebrates, and
some fish). These products claim to be reef safe, but many hobbyists have reported results to the contrary. Some hobbyists
remove the sick fish and perform freshwater baths. This process can be successful, however you must be careful to adjust the
temperature and PH of the freshwater before trying this procedure. A simple idea is to setup a hospital tank and lower the salinity
to 1.010 - 1.012 (some hobbyists lower the salinity to 1.009). By setting up a hospital tank, you can utilize those products that are
not considered reef safe. We recommend using an all natural (reef safe) product that contains Pro-Biotic Bacteria. In a natural
environment, Pro-Biotic Bacteria fights against pathogens. A Pro-Biotic solution is reef safe and can be used as a treatment and a
preventative. *Cryptocaryon (Saltwater Ich) does not effect corals/invertebrates.*
Learn more about Ich by clicking the link below- Saltwater Ich (Cryptocaryon)
Is there a product that I can use in case of a power outage?
Yes! There is an air pump especially made to limit the stress on your marine life during power outages. It is called the Azoo Non-
Stop Air Pump. Contrary to what you might have heard, not supplying the appropriate water flow and oxygenation for any amount of
time during a power loss, can be detrimental to your marine life. This is a gamble not worth taking. Please see our Products
page for more information regarding this product.
Why are there small brown or green patches of algae on my sand or live rock?
These brown patches are called Diatoms.
1- Your tank has been set up for less then 6 months.
2- Over-feeding is occurring, causing a build up of nutrients DOC’s (Dissolved Organic Compounds/Carbons.)
3- Not enough water flow.
4- Skimmer needs to be checked/cleaned more often, possibly upgraded.
5- Too much phosphate & nitrates (change filter pads/ media, use resin to remove phosphates and nitrates).
6- If dosing with Iodine, cut back dosage.
7- Need to add more reef janitors.
8- Check RO/DI water. Cylinders may need changing.
9- If tank is mature, then (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, & 8)
*Use Chem-pure Elite!
Click here for more information!
What is this red / green / blue “stuff” or “hairy slime” on my sand and live rock?
This algae is called Cyanobacteria.
1- Over-feeding is occurring, causing a build up of nutrients (DOC’s).
2- Not enough water flow.
3- Skimmer needs to be checked/cleaned, possibly upgraded.
4- Siphon Cyanobacteria out of tank.
5- Add more reef janitors to your aquarium.
6- Begin a regular water change regimen.
7- Make sure you change your light bulbs at least once a year (some hobbyist change their light bulbs 2x year)
8- Make sure your photo-period does not exceed 10 hours per day!
9- Too much phosphate and nitrate (change filter pads/ media, use resin to remove phosphates and nitrates).
*Use Chem-pure Elite!
Click here for more information!
I have this red slime all over my rocks and sand. I heard that there are products that will kill it.
Should I try any of them?
Let's back up and look at it from Mother Nature's point of view. Mother Nature did not intend for us to host a marine aquarium. But,
we did. If we want to have a successful experience in owning a marine environment, we have to do as Mother Nature does:
1- Provide a fresh supply of saltwater (water change regimens)
2- Water movement, water movement, water movement. Replicate the reef by using power-heads.
3- Use natural means (bacteria) to provide a healthy environment to help clean your aquarium.
4- Utilize a refugium (with various macro-algae) or resins, to remove excess nutrients.
5- Be sure to house enough reef critters such as crabs and snails (there are many to choose from).
6- Make sure you change your light bulbs at least once a year (some hobbyist change their light bulbs 2x year)
7- Make sure your photo-period does not exceed 10 hours per day!
*Products that claim to rid your tank of Cyanobacteria also claim to be reef safe. However, these products tend to kill beneficial
bacteria, and in many cases are harmful to your reef inhabitants. If you get into the habit of doing things "by the book", you will see
the decline of bad algae! *Use Chem-pure Elite to control phosphates!
Click here for more information!
What is this green stringy, hairy, bushy algae in my tank?
This algae is called Green Hair Algae.
1- High Nitrates and Phosphates are the cause.
2- If possible, siphon algae out of tank.
3- Check water source for nitrates and phosphates.
4- Begin a regular water change regimen.
5- Use resins to remove phosphates and Nitrates.
6- More water circulation/movement.
7- Add more reef janitors.
*Use Chem-pure Elite!
Click here for more information!
What is this round, “black”, “purple”, “brown”, pearl, or round algae on my live rock?
This algae is called Bubble Algae or Valonia.
1- Improve water quality- begin more frequent water changes / change filter pad / change media / add phosphate and nitrate
removing resins.
2- Do not pop/pinch algae. Algae will spread if pinched or popped.
3- Emerald crabs are known to eat these algae.
4- Some Sailfin Tangs are known to graze on Valonia.
*Use Chem-pure Elite!
Click here for more information!
Why do I have to do water changes? If I have to, can I use tap water?
Click here for more information!
Thank you for visiting our website. Below we have listed the most frequently asked questions from our customers.
Send us a question, and we will post it below!
What is the correct way to acclimate fish, corals and invertebrates?
*Click here for the process*
Do I have to use a Wet/Dry filter on my saltwater aquarium?
This is by far one of the most frequently asked questions. Many hobbyists use a Wet/Dry filter on their aquariums, however others
use canister and hang-on types. Years ago it was the most popular consensus that in order to have a successful reef aquarium
you must have a Wet/Dry filter. This is simply not the case any longer. If an aquarium is larger than a 150, we would then
recommend a Wet/Dry filter. Simply, in this instance it would be more cost effective to utilize a Wet/Dry. For aquariums 125 gallons
and below, you can have a successful saltwater aquarium by using canisters, and/or hang-on bio-wheel type of filters. Through our
practice and experience, we have seen that the two filtration methods are equally successful!
Can I use tap water to mix my salt or to top off my tank?
The answer is simply- NO
Tap water, regardless of City or Well sources, contains impurities: copper and iron, usually from metal pipes and wells, bacteria,
phosphate and nitrate (algae- promoting nutrients), chlorine, chloramines, ammonia, and silicates. These compounds may not
affect our health or the taste of drinking water in small amounts, however they can create less than favorable conditions for
invertebrates and fish living in our marine aquariums. Many of these impurities promote nuisance algae such as hair algae and
Cyanobacteria (slime algae) that can overgrow a reef tank and ruin its appearance.
*It has been brought to our attention (from several customers who use other companies to maintain their aquariums, that Tap
water (regardless of City or Well sources) is being used for start-up and top off water sources. This is one of the most important
factors to consider when hiring a company to setup or maintain your aquarium. Our suggestion is to seek other means if they are
not willing to use RO/DI purified water.
Reverse osmosis and deionizers (RO/DI) are the best methods for purifying tap-water. Miniature drinking water filters attached to
faucets do not provide the degree of toxin removal and purification required to improve the conditions of tap water for aquarium
use.
Aiptasia (Nuisance Anemones)
Many of us, if not all, have had to battle with Aiptasia in our saltwater aquariums. Many hobbyists use different methods to try and
eradicate them from their tanks- (from Joe's Juice, chemical injections, boiling hot water, lemon juice in a hypodermic needle, to
placing the rock with Aiptasia into RO/DI for a number of hours). All these methods have been used but in many instances, to no
avail. Now, Red Sea has made it simple and easy to eradicate the nuisance anemones! Aiptasia - X
New Tank Syndrome
What is New Tank Syndrome? When your newly setup saltwater aquarium is cycling (roughly 3 - 8 weeks) you should never add
delicate species to the tank (Anemones, Soft/Hard Corals, delicate invertebrates, or expensive fish). This is a phenomenon that
even the experts question, however be sure to follow this rule for a successful tank. Click here for information on the Cycling
Process!
My sand is dirty and it really looks bad. I want to know if I should vacuum my sand.
This is yet another topic worth discussing. When you vacuum your sand, you are literally removing the beneficial sand inhabitants-
(Microfauna/ Fauna) Bacteria- (Autotrophic/Heterotrophic/Chemolithotrophic) which all contribute to the process of breaking down
food and detritus within your tank. By vacuuming the sand bed you will offset the water parameters within the aquarium, possibly
causing an ammonia and Nitrate spike.
Vacuuming your sand bed is unnecessary and can actually do more harm than good!
If, and only if there is a patch of sand that is covered with algae or the like, we recommend that you quickly siphon (the surface) of
that spot. Always replenish your aquarium with the necessary bacteria (Bacter Vital) after water changes and/or dose with this
bacteria once a week.
*If you have enough water movement within your saltwater aquarium, debris will not settle on the sand and will be processed
naturally through proper filtration.*
I think I am overfeeding. What is the right way to feed my fish and corals?
When we eat a meal, we expect to take the time to enjoy it and nourish our body. The same principle should be used when feeding
your tank inhabitants. We suggest that you turn your filter(s) and skimmer off when feeding. This process will ensure that all of
your fish and corals are eating. This will also directly effect your water parameters. By doing this, the food will not be taken by the
filter and skimmer. You will not have to clean your filter pads as often and the chances of a spike in Nitrate/Nitrite/Ammonia will be
slim.
I want to set up a reef aquarium. Can you tell me what I need?
*Live Rock - minimum 1 to 2 (lbs) per gallon.
*Live Sand - 1.45 (lbs) per gallon. Example- 55 Gallon Aquarium= 80 (lbs)
*Lighting - 3 to 5 watts per gallon. Example- 55-gallon aquarium is 165 – 275 watts.
*Filtration / Skimmers - The ideal setup will provide a turnover rate of 15 to 25 times the volume of water
per hour. Obtaining a filter and skimmer should be on the list of highest importance when purchasing
an aquarium.
*When setting up an aquarium, you should add your sand first, then place your live rock where desired,
then add your saltwater.*
Why do I need to have Live Rock in my Tank?
Live rock becomes the main biological nitrification base or biological filter of a saltwater aquarium, while at the same time
enhances the look of the aquarium and provides shelter for the inhabitants. It is not necessary to add live rock to a fish only tank,
however the addition of live rock to any setup has greater benefits.
About.com
What is a UV sterilizer and should I have one on my reef aquarium?
A UV Sterilizer is a purification method which uses ultraviolet light to kill bacteria, algae spores, and micro organisms. It is widely
debated by many hobbyist to utilize a UV Sterilizer on a reef system. The UV Sterilizer cannot discriminate between the "good" and
the "bad" bacteria and micro organisms, so therefore it kills both. A UV Sterilizer should not be used constantly on a reef system. If
one chooses to utilize a UV Sterilizer it should be used periodically. When using a UV Sterilizer, you should be sure to replenish the
bacteria in your reef aquarium. It has also be researched and shown that when a UV Sterilizer is used, photo oxidation (physical
destruction of corals) can take place. If you decide to use a UV Sterilizer, Open Oceans recommends using one on a Fish Only
aquarium (an aquarium without corals).
Why is the blue light important to have for my reef aquarium?
The blue light is actinic light. It is very important to provide actinic light for your corals. The Zooxanthellae (algae within the corals)
must receive this lighting for the overall health and growth of the photosynthetic corals. Be sure to change your light bulbs (both
white and actinic) at least once a year.
What is the proper temperature for a saltwater aquarium?
This is a question that is debated by many saltwater hobbyists. Our experience shows that one of the more important factors is
temperature fluctuation. Stress on fish, invertebrates, and corals is directly related to the temperature fluctuations throughout the
day. We recommend that you try to maintain a less fluctuating temperature within your aquarium. Studies have shown that
temperatures above 85 degrees Fahrenheit has an undesirable effect on corals, as does a fluctuation to lower temperatures. The
Zooxanthellae (algae living within the coral, which provides food for the coral through photosynthesis) begins to die at higher
temperatures, therefore so does the coral. We recommend a temperature of 78 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit. If your water tends to
fluctuate too high throughout the day, you should consider using an external fan or a chiller to control the temperature.
How do I feed my corals? Click Here!
Do you recommend using carbon in a marine aquarium?
Many reef hobbyists use carbon in their aquarium, however, we recommend using a product called Chemi-pure Elite. Let's first
examine carbon. Carbon is used to remove unpleasant smells, and cloudiness from aquarium water. However, most carbons
release or leach the removed compounds back into the aquarium water. Chemi-pure Elite has been on the market for many years
and is ideal for both freshwater and saltwater aquariums. Chemi-pure Elite does not release or leach waste back into the water.
Chemi-pure Elite is a unique product that does not strip saltwater of its necessary trace elements (as other carbons do). Chemi-
pure Elite absorbs heavy metals, copper, phenol, ammonia and other nitrogenous waste, phosphates and silicates. In addition
Chemi-pure Elite maintains the proper pH which is imperative when mimicking a marine environment. By utilizing this product,
your tank will be clearer and healthier!
My fish is rubbing and scratching itself on rocks in the tank. It also has small white dots all over its
body. What are the white dots? How do I get rid of them?
The signs of rubbing, scratching and white dots is most definitely Saltwater Ich- (Cryptocaryon). Ich is a disease many hobbyists
experience. There are many opinions surrounding the treatment of this fish disease. Some people use chemicals to stop or
prevent the spread of Ich. Many of these chemicals are not reef safe (not safe to use in an aquarium with corals, invertebrates, and
some fish). These products claim to be reef safe, but many hobbyists have reported results to the contrary. Some hobbyists
remove the sick fish and perform freshwater baths. This process can be successful, however you must be careful to adjust the
temperature and PH of the freshwater before trying this procedure. A simple idea is to setup a hospital tank and lower the salinity
to 1.010 - 1.012 (some hobbyists lower the salinity to 1.009). By setting up a hospital tank, you can utilize those products that are
not considered reef safe. We recommend using an all natural (reef safe) product that contains Pro-Biotic Bacteria. In a natural
environment, Pro-Biotic Bacteria fights against pathogens. A Pro-Biotic solution is reef safe and can be used as a treatment and a
preventative. *Cryptocaryon (Saltwater Ich) does not effect corals/invertebrates.*
Learn more about Ich by clicking the link below- Saltwater Ich (Cryptocaryon)
Is there a product that I can use in case of a power outage?
Yes! There is an air pump especially made to limit the stress on your marine life during power outages. It is called the Azoo Non-
Stop Air Pump. Contrary to what you might have heard, not supplying the appropriate water flow and oxygenation for any amount of
time during a power loss, can be detrimental to your marine life. This is a gamble not worth taking. Please see our Products
page for more information regarding this product.
Why are there small brown or green patches of algae on my sand or live rock?
These brown patches are called Diatoms.
1- Your tank has been set up for less then 6 months.
2- Over-feeding is occurring, causing a build up of nutrients DOC’s (Dissolved Organic Compounds/Carbons.)
3- Not enough water flow.
4- Skimmer needs to be checked/cleaned more often, possibly upgraded.
5- Too much phosphate & nitrates (change filter pads/ media, use resin to remove phosphates and nitrates).
6- If dosing with Iodine, cut back dosage.
7- Need to add more reef janitors.
8- Check RO/DI water. Cylinders may need changing.
9- If tank is mature, then (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, & 8)
*Use Chem-pure Elite!
Click here for more information!
What is this red / green / blue “stuff” or “hairy slime” on my sand and live rock?
This algae is called Cyanobacteria.
1- Over-feeding is occurring, causing a build up of nutrients (DOC’s).
2- Not enough water flow.
3- Skimmer needs to be checked/cleaned, possibly upgraded.
4- Siphon Cyanobacteria out of tank.
5- Add more reef janitors to your aquarium.
6- Begin a regular water change regimen.
7- Make sure you change your light bulbs at least once a year (some hobbyist change their light bulbs 2x year)
8- Make sure your photo-period does not exceed 10 hours per day!
9- Too much phosphate and nitrate (change filter pads/ media, use resin to remove phosphates and nitrates).
*Use Chem-pure Elite!
Click here for more information!
I have this red slime all over my rocks and sand. I heard that there are products that will kill it.
Should I try any of them?
Let's back up and look at it from Mother Nature's point of view. Mother Nature did not intend for us to host a marine aquarium. But,
we did. If we want to have a successful experience in owning a marine environment, we have to do as Mother Nature does:
1- Provide a fresh supply of saltwater (water change regimens)
2- Water movement, water movement, water movement. Replicate the reef by using power-heads.
3- Use natural means (bacteria) to provide a healthy environment to help clean your aquarium.
4- Utilize a refugium (with various macro-algae) or resins, to remove excess nutrients.
5- Be sure to house enough reef critters such as crabs and snails (there are many to choose from).
6- Make sure you change your light bulbs at least once a year (some hobbyist change their light bulbs 2x year)
7- Make sure your photo-period does not exceed 10 hours per day!
*Products that claim to rid your tank of Cyanobacteria also claim to be reef safe. However, these products tend to kill beneficial
bacteria, and in many cases are harmful to your reef inhabitants. If you get into the habit of doing things "by the book", you will see
the decline of bad algae! *Use Chem-pure Elite to control phosphates!
Click here for more information!
What is this green stringy, hairy, bushy algae in my tank?
This algae is called Green Hair Algae.
1- High Nitrates and Phosphates are the cause.
2- If possible, siphon algae out of tank.
3- Check water source for nitrates and phosphates.
4- Begin a regular water change regimen.
5- Use resins to remove phosphates and Nitrates.
6- More water circulation/movement.
7- Add more reef janitors.
*Use Chem-pure Elite!
Click here for more information!
What is this round, “black”, “purple”, “brown”, pearl, or round algae on my live rock?
This algae is called Bubble Algae or Valonia.
1- Improve water quality- begin more frequent water changes / change filter pad / change media / add phosphate and nitrate
removing resins.
2- Do not pop/pinch algae. Algae will spread if pinched or popped.
3- Emerald crabs are known to eat these algae.
4- Some Sailfin Tangs are known to graze on Valonia.
*Use Chem-pure Elite!
Click here for more information!
Why do I have to do water changes? If I have to, can I use tap water?
Click here for more information!
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